SH-Oligopeptide-5

The aim of this study was to determine the effects of anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening of fermented black ginseng (FBG) in human subjects and to examine underlying biochemical mechanisms of action. A clinical study was performed to evaluate efficacy and safety using a 1% FBG cream formulation. Twenty-three subjects were recruited and instructed to apply control or FBG creams each on half of their face twice daily for 8 weeks. After 8 weeks FBG cream significantly reduced appearance of eye wrinkles compared to prior to exposure and control cream. Skin color was significantly brightened using FBG cream in comparison with control cream. To determine the mechanism of actions involved in anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects various concentrations of FBG were applied to human fibroblast CCD-986sk and mouse melanoma B16F1 cells. Collagen synthesis in CCD-986sk cells was improved significantly at 1, 3, 10, or 30 µg/ml of FBG. At 30 µg/ml, FBG significantly inhibited (73%) collagenase, and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) compared to control. Tyrosinase activity and DOPA (3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine) oxidation were significantly decreased at all tested concentrations. Melanin production in B16F1 cells was concentration-dependently reduced 15% to 60% by all concentrations of FBG. These results suggested that a 1% FBG cream exerted anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects.

Aminoacyl-tRNA synthetase complex-interacting multifunctional protein 1 (AIMP1)-derived peptide (AdP) has been developed as a cosmeceutical ingredient for skin anti-aging given its fibroblast-activating (FA) and melanocyte-inhibiting (MI) functions. However, a suitable strategy for the topical delivery of AdP was required due to its low-permeable properties. In this study, FA and MI domains of AdP (FA-AdP and MI-AdP, respectively) were determined by functional domain mapping, where the activities of several fragments of AdP on fibroblast and melanocyte were tested, and a hydrosol-based topical delivery system for these AdP fragments was prepared. The excipient composition of the hydrosol was optimized to maximize the viscosity and drying rate by using Box-Behnken design. The artificial skin deposition of FA-AdP-loaded hydrosol was evaluated using Keshary-Chien diffusion cells equipped with Strat-M membrane (STM). The quantification of the fluorescent dye-tagged FA-AdP in STM was carried out by near-infrared fluorescence imaging. The optimized hydrosol showed 127-fold higher peptide deposition in STM than free FA-AdP (p < 0.05). This work suggests that FA- and MI-AdP are active-domains for anti-wrinkle and whitening activities, respectively, and the hydrosol could be used as a promising cosmetic formulation for the delivery of AdPs to the skin.

Ethnopharmacological relevance: Stichopus japonicus (sea cucumber), edible traditional food in Asia, and its extracts are renowned for their wound healing, pain relieving, and cosmetic effects in traditional medicine. Holothurins, toxins isolated from sea cucumber, are thought to be active components for their beneficial effects. However, researchers have yet to outline specific mechanisms thereof. Aim of the study: The present study was designed to evaluate the anti-melanogenic and anti-wrinkle properties of S. japonicus viscera extracts (VF) on the skin via in vitro and ex vivo experiments and to assess the anti-aging effects of S. japonicus viscera extracts in relation to known wound healing and cosmetic processes. Materials and methods: The viscera of live S. japonicus specimens were freeze dried and ground into a powder. Aqueous extracts were subsequently prepared from the concentrated powder using a water extraction method. To investigate the inhibitory effects of VF on melanogenesis, mushroom tyrosinase activity assay and melanin assay were performed on Melan-A cells. To further delineate the anti-melanogenic properties of VF, western blot analysis for tyrosinase, TRP-1, TRP-2, MITF, and ERK was conducted. Changes in collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblast (HDF) were evaluated via CCK-8 assay and immunocytochemistry to determine the anti-wrinkle effects of VF. Finally, anti-aging properties were examined in a human skin equivalent ex vivo model. Results: In Melan-A cells, VF treatment reduced melanin contents in a concentration-dependent manner. The anti-melanogenic effects of VF appeared to be due to enzymatic inhibition of tyrosinase. In CCK-8 assay, VF also significantly increased the viability of HDFs in a concentration-dependent manner. Immunoblot analysis revealed phosphorylation of ERK in HDFs treated with VF. In a human skin equivalent ex vivo model (Neoderm®-ED), VF treatment at a concentration of 50 μg/ml enhanced collagen type IV and Ki-67 expression and downregulated MMP-9 expression. Conclusion: This study demonstrated that aqueous extracts from S. japonicus viscera are effective whitening and anti-aging agents that stimulate ERK signaling to inhibit melanin synthesis and promote collagen synthesis.